Directions

One of the best features about this area is that because of its remoteness and obscurity there is virtually no climbing traffic. The only people we have encountered in our many weekend visits have been the occasional somewhat adventuresome hikers. Please respect the right of all plants and animals to exist and live as they are.

This is not an area recommended for inexperienced climbers, or hikers for that matter. The chance encounters with wildlife can be sudden and at times dangerous. There are many boulder pits off the recommended route. There is no maintained trail into this area and the descents to many climbs are 4th to easy 5th class.

You should not have to do any difficult boulder hopping or end up mired in brush. The trail from the Sunset (north) parking lot is too far for this approach. From the Treasure Lake (south Charons Gardens) parking lot, look to the northwest horizon. The tallest peak is Twin Rocks Mountain. To its south is Granite Mountain.

Take the left-most trail that goes north from the parking area and watch for a prominent black waterstreak across the creek on your left. About 300 paces from the parking lot, there is a small westward drainage. Follow this down and across the creek which flows to Post Oak Lake. Climb up the black waterstreak and follow this drainage to near its source, then turn north (right). From here there is a series of cairns marking the route to the saddle of the pass. You should see some broken up slabs, a split boulder on the horizon and a large oak in the immediate area beyond the slabs. Cross the slabs and walk left of the large oak, then follow the next intermittent creek uphill until it begins to fan out near the split boulder. Go up a small granite ramp. From its top, go left and generally northwest through this increasingly indistinct creek.

As you hike through short scrubby trees, look for the "7" boulder among large rocks on your left. Keep heading west to a point about 70 yards north of the "7", where a grassy clearing leads to an easy passage north then west through the small boulders and scrub. From here the pass is in view.

Walk uphill a short way then drop down slightly to a small north-facing wall. Continue along and up past its base. Maintain this general elevation through this area. The trick is to connect the grassy meadows with the game trails, cutting across three distinct north-flowing drainages. Look for a clam-shaped, 9 foot tall boulder by itself in a meadow. Do the boulder problem, "Fragile Eggshell Mind" (V0), on its south side and move on. From here the Cochise Rocks will be visible high on your left on Granite Mountain.

After crossing the third drainage, as you top out on a meadow a prominent boulder resembling a guppy's face will come into view. To get to the Cochise group, before reaching the guppy boulder, walk up the east side of the gully and cross it just before the base of the climbs.

Travel time to Cochise rocks is about thirty minutes, forty-five to the Winter Garden Wall. It is reached by continuing over the saddle of the pass. Generally trend downhill for about 100 yards until you come to a small arching tree, then cross the westward flowing creek that separates Granite and Twin Rocks Mountains. A little boulder hopping is required here. Once on the Twin Rocks side of the drainage, there is a series of ramps across low angle slabs which lead you into view of the Winter Garden Wall. Scramble up to its right end via 3rd class slabs and cracks to a large rocky shelf to approach climbs 13 to 20.

Looking south across the valley from Winter Garden Wall, La Mano de Mickey is located just below and slightly left of the highest point on Granite Mountain. To reach this formation from the pass, stay on the left side of the creek and walk uphill from the arching tree. The Outland is reached by continuing even further down the creek, and crossing just before the climbs.

Route Descriptions

Cochise Rocks - East Face
1. Naiche: 5.11d? TR, Jean Wilks, Denise Wilks.
At the center of the east face, take on the thin crystal edges and steep smearing to gain the welcome relief of the diagonal crack.
2. Geronimo: 5.10b, 2 bolts, JW, DW.
Start this mixed crack and face climb at ground level or off the large platform by traversing the ledge from the left. Bring large cams for the anchor.

Cochise Rocks - North Face
3. D.C.A. (Devoured Cultures of America): 5.9, JW, DW.
Inside the cave, in the corridor to Geronimo, find the offwidth start. A pair of diagonal cracks leads to the top with good protection. The coolest climb on the mountain. The chimney at the mouth of this offwidth can also be toproped.
4. Eagle Spirit: 5.10c TR, JW, DW.
Lower off to the ledge above the cave on a top belay or do a Michael Jordan from the ground to start. Follow the big solid edges across the face to the prominent diagonal crack. Positive handjams and a hueco half way up make this steep ascent an experience not to be missed. Set an escape line from the top of Geronimo or leave a long sling to descend.
5. Open Project.

La Mano De Mickey
6. Insect Lager: 5.7, JW, DW.
If you are the allergic type, wear a rubber suit for this poison ivy infested dihedral. The top half is briefly interesting.
7. Shades: 5.8, Jean Wilks, Mike Castleman.
This climb is short enough to make an offwidth fun. A short fist section at the start leads to a chimney exit with numerous holds.
8. Lithium Comix: 5.8, JW, DW.
Excellent fist jamming to an offwidth exit mark this climb on quality rock.

The Outland
9a. Crack Habit: 5.9, MC, JW.
Located in the collection of huge boulders, overhangs and dihedrals near the end of the canyon, this crack is a deceptively sustained workout which protects well.
9b. Grunts and french frees: A0 5.10c, JW, MC.
With all the fixin's. The slightly overhanging acute dihedral has a most delightful offwidth which will please anyone with a taste for thrash rock. Bring the Big Dudes for the substantial main course. Descend to the west.

Winter Garden Wall
9c. Soul of the Heartland: 5.8, JW, DW.
At about 90 feet, the longest route in the West Horizon area has a good variety of moves, but occasional loose rock. Start at the mouth of (not inside) the chimney and stem onto the main face. The positive lieback and cracks above protect well as the difficulty steadily decreases.
9d. Iconoclast: 5.8, JW, DW.
Sketchy pro in tiny cracks on an otherwise well protected route makes a stemming start tempting. The crux is the first section of the face start. A unique double mantle in a small dihedral and a face move at the end make this a quality climb.
9e. Trickster Coyote: 5.7, Jean Wilks, Denise Wilks.
The first half of this route has a collection of intriguing sections starting with an overhang. Protection is good till the last 20-30 feet. Bring small Tricams for the flaring pockets near the top.
10. Deadwood: 5.8-, JW, MC.
Start on a face next to a short dihedral in the shade of the trees behind a veil of dead branches. Move left at the top of this column of rock and follow the crack system marked by a black waterstreak to the large belay ledge. Tie off the ends of your rope and descend by rappelling 80 feet from the small tree to the east or walk up to the base of the next two climbs.
11. Dragon Back: 5.6, David Connel, Brent Wise.
Left of Z-system, this route follows a jagged corner of rock to a small ledge and finishes with a face move.
12. Z-System: 5.8, BW, DC.
In the wide chimney, stem 12 feet up to the first placement on the balancy route. Follow the zig-zag crack to the top.
13. Bitchin' Piranha: 5.10d, 4 bolts, JW, BW, DW.
Sharp edging and tricky balance moves make this a choice route for face climbers. Follow the arc of bolts and exit straight up. For a harder variation, traverse right from the last bolt to the ramp at the top of Falcon Nebula.
14. Falcon Nebula: 5.10b, 2 bolts, JW, BW.
Wander back and forth on this face for a mixed bag of moves. Short but sweet.
15. Falcon's Arbor: 5.7, BW, DC.
Climb the crack to the right of Falcon's Wing Slab, behind the tree and straight up.
16. Grunge: 5.6, BW, DC.
A nice section of fist jamming near the top is the only redeeming feature of this loose and often dirty crack. Medium to large cams are useful for the top anchors on #16 through #19.
17. Ben Sails the Severn: 5.9, BW, DC.
This varying crack protects well. Lieback past the detached horn then cross over to the wide crack at the top. Tape up for the exit move which is the crux.
18. Solarflexes: 5.10a, JW, DW.
This "Y" shaped crack is sustained in difficulty and is a fingers to fists route up the left side. The boulders at the start are off limits, damn it.
19. Hotrod Corner: 5.10d TR, JW, DW, Mark Matos, Jeff Gilbert.
The shallow dihedral to the right of Solarflexes offers some enjoyable balancy moves that make it well worth the effort.
20. Thor Crack: 5.6, DC, BW.
The numerous flake pulls keep this easy climb interesting.