Location

Situated on private land on the Pedernales River, west of Austin, Texas.

Useful Phone Numbers

None

Getting There

From Dallas/Fort Worth, take I-35 south to Round Rock. Exit on FM 620 and go west past Mansfield Dam on Lake Travis to Highway 71. Turn north (right) on 71 for a little over a mile, then turn west (left) onto FM 3238 (also known as Hamilton Pool Road). There is an Exxon at the intersection. Follow FM 3238 for about 12 miles. Watch for a dirt drive leading to the right with a sign for "Milton Reimers' Fishing Ranch." If you reach the bridge on the Pedernales, you've gone too far.

After turning onto the dirt drive, follow the paths to the left (every time you come to a fork in the road, take the left fork). The Reimers' house/pay station is about 2.5 miles down the dirt drive. MAP

Getting Around

Once you turn onto the dirt drive, remember that you are on private land. This is a working ranch, so be sure that any gates you stop to open are closed behind you. Follow the drive to the farmhouse and stop to pay the day-use fee. Continue along the drive to a wide parking area with a Port-A-Let and park. The trail to the climbing areas heads down a spring-fed creek toward the river. There are some established routes in the grotto you pass along the creek, but the majority of the climbs are on the cliff lines that head off to the right and left of the creek, parallel to the river.

To get to Reimers' from Pedernales Falls, turn right out of the park entrance and then turn left onto FM 3232. Follow 3232 7 miles to FM 290. Turn left on 290 and follow this to the intersection with FM 12 in Dripping Springs. Turn left on 12 and follow this to the T junction with FM 3238. Turn left again and follow this approximately 5 miles to Reimers' Ranch. (Watch for the gate on the right.)

Club Trips

At least one trip each spring and one trip each fall (see trip schedule).

Types of Climbing

Although there are a couple of cracks that may be lead using traditional pro, the majority of climbs are bolted sport climbs, under 50 feet high. Many of the routes have cold shut anchors at the top, with easy access to the top for top-rope anchors. Ratings range from 5.6 to 5.13, but are skewed toward the higher end of the spectrum.

Rock

The rock is pocketed limestone and is often overhanging.

Climbing Season

The best times to visit are spring and fall, but it is possible to climb all year round. The climate here is similar to that of Enchanted Rock, with generally mild winters except for the occasional cold snap. Even in the dead of summer, there is a lot of shade along the cliffs and you can always go stand in the river during the hottest part of the day.

Accommodations

The Reimers no longer allow over night camping on their property, but you can camp at one of the parks operated by the Army Corps of Engineers on Lake Travis or at Pedernales Falls State Park.

To get to Pedernales Falls from Dallas, take I-35 to Round Rock, and exit on FM 1325 (one exit south of FM 620). FM 1325 eventually turns into Mopac and continues through Austin to the south side where it intersects US Highway 290. Turn right (west) on 290 and follow this road to Dripping Springs. From the intersection of 290 and FM 12 at the stoplight in Dripping Springs, it is 9.5 miles to the turn-off to Pedernales Falls State Park on FM 3232. Turn right at this intersection and follow 3232 approximately 7 miles to the T junction with Ranch Road 2766. Turn right at the T junction. The park entrance is on the left approximately 30 yards from the T junction.

To get to Pedernales Falls from Reimers', turn left (northeast) out of the gate onto FM 3238. Follow 3238 approximately 5 miles to the intersection with FM 12. Turn right on 12 and follow this to the intersection with US Highway 290 in Dripping Springs. Turn right (west) at this intersection and proceed using the directions given in the preceding paragraph.

If you can't get a site at Pedernales Falls, one alternative is Pace Bend Park. Pace Bend is on Highway 71 about 10 miles west of the turn off to FM 3238 (if you stay at Pace Bend check out the bouldering on the cliffs at Thurman Cove. The landing is soft, but wet.)

You can also camp at Choutaugau Campground, which is a privately owned and operated campground just outside Pace Bend Park. Choutaugau offers tent and electric sites, showers, flush toilets, and potable (drinking) water. To get to Choutaugau take Highway 71 to FM 2322. Turn right and follow the signs to Choutaugau campground.

For people driving from Dallas, it is probably more convenient to camp at Mansfield Dam on FM 620. The above camping areas are about equidistant from Reimers' Ranch. Campsites are occupied on a first-come first-serve basis, but don't seem to fill up.

Expenses

Camping is $10.00 per car per night at the Mansfield Dam campground. Camping fees for Texas state parks can be found on the Texas Parks & Wildlife web site. The day-use fee for Reimers' Ranch is $10.00 per person. Reimers' is only open for climbing from 8:00 AM to civil twilight (dark).

Guidebooks

Texas Limestone II, second edition, by Jeff Jackson, Kevin Gallagher, and Rebecca Gonzales, copyright 1995, Texas Mountain Guides/Homo Aggro Press. This guide is also the guide for Mineral Wells and practically every other climbing area in Texas except for Enchanted Rock and Hueco Tanks.