Location

El Pico de Orizaba (18,400 feet)
Just east of Tlachichuca, Mexico. Tlachichuca is about 200 miles southeast of Mexico City in the direction of Veracruz. From the summit on a clear day, you can see the Gulf of Mexico.

Popocateptl (Popo. 17,887 feet)
Iztaccihuatl (Ixta. 17,342 feet)
Just east of Amecameca, Mexico. Amecameca is only 50 miles southeast of Mexico City. Pre-daylight climbing provides beautiful views of Mexico City's lights.

La Malinche (14, 635 feet)
Just north of Puebla, Mexico. Puebla is about 100 miles southeast of Mexico City. Great acclimation climb for the higher peaks.

Useful Phone Numbers

Senior Reyes Compound, Tlachichuca, Mexico.
011-52-5-595-1203
011-52-5-681-7306 (Fax)
74173.2642@CompuServe.COM (email)

Senor Reyes is the premier transport service for climbing routes on Orizaba. Reservations only required during the busy season in late December.

Getting There

Fly into Mexico City. (You need a passport or birth certificate and driver's license to get into the country.) From Mexico City, there are several options for transportation to each mountain, but I strongly recommend Mexico's bus system. The buses are efficient, timely, and very cheap. They also give you a chance to sit back and enjoy the countryside. You can also rent a car or take taxis everywhere if desired. Taxis are "relatively" cheap, but much more expensive than the buses. Renting a car and finding your way around Mexico could be as exciting as most of the climbs. I would recommend picking up the local car insurance at the airport if you decide to drive yourself.

El Pico de Orizaba and La Malinche:
From the airport, take the Estrella Express Bus from Mexico City to Puebla. You can also catch a taxi to Mexico City's TAPO bus station (the equivalent to DFW airport) and catch the same bus. Buses run quite often from TAPO and every hour or so from the airport. The bus from the airport leaves from the same area as the taxi pickup/dropoff, so just follow the signs and start asking for the Estrella to Puebla. ALWAYS ask the bus driver where he is going so you end up in the right place. It takes about 2 hours on the bus to get to Puebla's bus terminal from Mexico City.

From the main bus terminal in Puebla, buy a ticket on the Acosa Line to Tlachichuca. Board and stay on for the 2 hour ride. Tlachichuca is the last stop before the bus turns around and heads back. The bus makes many stops, letting people on and off in what seems like the middle of nowhere. On a clear day, views of Orizaba from the bus will make you nervous.

Once in the small town of Tlachichuca, hike to the Ruta Norte store across from the Pemex gas station. Just ask anyone if you can't find it. The Ruta Norte store is the front to Senor Reyes' compound. Ask anyone at the store for Senor Reyes and someone will help you get situated.

Popocateptl and Iztaccihuatl:
Both mountains can be reached using the same route since they are only a few miles apart. From Mexico City's TAPO bus station, take the Volcanoe Bus Line to Amecameca. The trip will take over and hour, stopping frequently. From Amecameca, take a taxi or bus to the Paso de Cortez, the pass that separates the two peaks.

Popo and Ixta can also be reached directly from Puebla. Take a bus to Cholula. From Cholula, use a taxi or microbus to get to the Paso de Cortez.

The Paso de Cortez is the jumping-off point for both Popo and Ixta. From here, you can arrange for a taxi to take you to the Tlamacus lodge or the La Joya hostel. There is a small visitor center or lodge in the Paso that dispenses tourist information about the volcanos. This visitor center is usually staffed by park rangers and may have a phone for arranging transportation. (Or they may not. Check first.) There are also usually a few vendors in the Paso that sell food and souvenirs, and some spare taxis to pick up tourists and take them back to the cities.

Getting Around

El Pico de Orizaba:
Arrange a departure and pickup time with Senor Reyes to Piedra Grande, the hut at 14,000. They will haul you and your gear to the hut and come back at the prearranged time. If you decide you need to stay longer, you can leave a note with another climber to give to Reyes or tell them to come back when they arrive to pick you up. Senor Reyes is very flexible.

There are two huts at Piedra Grande, one small and one large. Both are comfortable and block the elements. In December, both huts can be very crowded, so you may want to bring a tent. In addition to the huts and the surrounding area, many tent and bivy sites exist at 15,000, 15,500, and 16,200 feet.

Once at the hut, take the well marked trail up the north side to the start of the glacier. From here, continue south to the crater rim, traverse west and around to the summit on the west side, marked with large metal cross structures. This, the North Route on the Jampa, is only one of many routes on Orizaba.

NOTE: Roped travel is highly recommended. Experience in self arrest, ice axe and crampon use is a must on all Orizaba routes.

La Malinche:
Puebla is a great city and is a good place to stop and acclimatize for a couple of days. Many climbers will spend a day climbing the nearby La Malinche before heading on to Orizaba. For La Malinche, take a bus from the main bus terminal to Tlaxcala (about 45 min) and get off at the main bus station. Catch the next bus to Apizaco (about 15 minutes). From Apizaco, catch a taxi to the trail head on the north size of La Malinche. The taxi will be able to drop you off at about 10,000 feet. From here, follow the road up to 11,000 and onto the well-worn trail to the summit.

The hiking is easy and beautiful. You may want to arrange to be picked up by the taxi at a pre-determined time because traffic is scarce.

Popocateptl:
To get to Popo from the Paso de Cortez, take a taxi (if available or arrange for the one from Amecameca to take you further) south to the Tlamacus lodge. From there, follow the north slope trial to the summit. As of February 1997, both the Tlamacus lodge and Popo were both closed due to the continuing volcanic activity of Popo. It is currently illegal to climb Popo.

Iztaccihuatl:
To get to Ixta from the Paso de Cortez, take a taxi north to the microwave station. This station and the trail head are sometimes referred to as La Joya. There is a hostel at the microwave station for accommodations, but the dirt road continues another mile to the trail for those wanting to camp out. From the trail head, gain access to the south ridge. Follow the well-marked trail north to the summit. This route gains elevation quickly, leaving the climber to traverse to the summit at over 16,000 feet. Be sure you are sufficiently acclimated before attempting Ixta.

NOTE: Roped travel is highly recommended. Experience in self arrest, ice axe and crampon use is a must on all Ixta routes.

The summits on both Popo and Ixta can be reached in a long day. Ixta has several huts for camping, but I would recommend bringing a tent due to the crowds and forego the huts. Ice fields and glaciers exist depending on the year, so bring the gear just in case.

For both routes, pre-arrange a taxi for guaranteed transport back to Amecameca. However, the traffic is usually high (this area is a national park with lots of visitors from Mexico City), so catching a ride should be easy.

Club Trips

None.

Types of Climbing

All routes are mountaineering approaches that require strenuous hiking and climbing up to 35-45 degrees with a pack. Even the easiest routes include glaciers, water ice, and class 3 rock. Other rock climbing is available on Orizaba and Ixta; just use your imagination.

Orizaba is a multi-day mini expedition (due to its remoteness), while Popo and Ixta can be done as day climbs (with proper acclimation, of course).

Rock and Ice

The rock is a volcanic conglomerate. Glaciers are hard-packed ice and snow. Some water ice up to 35-45 degrees.

Climbing Season

December through March is Mexico's dry season with the best climbing conditions. However, temperature and winds can be very extreme at higher altitudes. Bring some warm stuff.

Accommodations

Mexico City:
Mexico City has many cheap hotels and motels. Just ask a travel agent. A nice hotel close to the airport is the JR Plaza (Junior Plaza), about $40.00 per night.

Puebla (for Malinche, Popo, or Ixta):
Also many options available. Best Western and Fiesta Inn are both great. About $40.00 per night

Tlachichuca (for Orizaba):
Senor Reyes Compound. However other small motels exist. Reyes charges $15.00 per night which includes breakfast.

Senor Reyes offers a bunk house for sleeping, warm showers and toilets, and transportation to the huts at 14,000 feet on Orizaba. Transportation leaves daily at around noon, but I recommend staying in Tlachichuca at least one night. It's a great little place with some of the best food in the world. You'll need to acclimatize anyway. Tlachichuca is at 9,000 feet elevation.

Piedra Grande Huts (north side of Orizaba, 14,000 feet):
First come, first served. The large hut could easily hold 20 climbers and gear, while the small hut could cram 5. Both huts are free.

Tlamacus (for Popo):
The lodge is currently closed but runs about $5.00 per night when open.

La Joya - hostel at the microwave station (for Ixta):
Bunk beds, bathrooms, and electricity, no showers. $1.00 per night.

Huts on Ixta:
Primitive shelters if not crowded. Free for the taking.

Amecameca (for Popo or Ixta):
Several small motels for around $20.00 a night. Just ask any street vendor for directions or a travel agent.

Once in the mountains, pitching a tent is considered OK, just respect the other climbers.

Expenses

Prices in this section are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise specified

Bus rides are generally very cheap. Usually $5.00 for transport between major cities and less than $2.00 for other short trips.

Senor Reyes charges $50.00 per person round-trip from Tlachichuca to Piedra Grand.

Taxis to and from bus stations and motels are generally around $2.00-$4.00. The taxi from Apizaco to La Malinche is $6.00, from Cholula to the Paso de Cortez or La Joya is $20.00, and from Amecameca to the Paso de Cortez is $15.00. (These prices are all one way fares.) Taxi fares are negotiable, so try to get a good deal.

Be prepared to tip everyone that helps you; just use some small change. A peso or two here and there can make your life very nice in Mexico.

The finest meal in Mexico (outside Mexico City), will only cost $5.00, but you can usually eat for $2.00. Try the pastries for breakfast and trail food.

Advice

Pack light! Getting around the small towns requires some walking. Trying to carry 3 or 4 bags and a backpack will be a hassle.

Don't be afraid of the people. Everyone is more than willing to help out and in most cases, don't want money. Most Mexicans want to know you and where you are from.

Don't be afraid to ask for directions or help. Generally, write the destination down on a piece of paper. Show this to anyone and follow their directions.

Don't get in a hurry. Mexico moves at its own pace, just go with it. Plan a couple of extra days into your schedule to avoid this pressure.

Try the food and stay away from the water. Drink bottled water or beer and you'll be fine. If you're worried about getting sick, get a prescription filled before you leave the U.S., and don't worry about what you eat. There are also several over-the-counter drugs in Mexico that will wipe out the revenge in no time. Cipero or Diodiquin will do. Don't try to bring any of these back into the U.S..

Make a high camp on Orizaba at approximately 15,000 or 16,200 feet. Make a gear drop one day, and then go back down to sleep at Piedra Grande. The following day move to your high camp, and sleep there. Wake early and summit! This strategy should increase your chances of making the summit.

Acclimate, Acclimate, Acclimate.

Guidebooks

Mexico's Volcanos - A Climbing Guide, second edition, by R. J. Secor, copyright 1993, the Mountaineers.

There is also a lot of great information available on other web sites.