Location

Mount Magazine State Park is located on Scenic Highway 309 approximately 17 miles south of Paris, Arkansas; or from Danville, travel nine miles west on Ark. 10 to Havana, then go 10 miles north on Scenic Highway 309.

Park Map

Useful Phone Numbers

1-888-AT-PARKS 

Getting There

There are three distinctly different ways to get to Mt. Magazine from Dallas.

The first way is to take US Highway 75 north through Sherman where it is joined by US Highway 69. Follow 69 to the junction with I-40 near Checotah, Oklahoma. Turn east on I-40 and follow this through Ft. Smith, Arkansas to the junction with State Highway 23 near Ozark, Arkansas. Turn right (south) and follow 23 through Ozark, and continue on this road to Caulksville. In Caulksville, turn left (east) on State Highway 22 and follow this to the junction with State Highway 309 in Paris. Turn right (south) on State Highway 309 in the middle of town. Approximately 1 mile from the intersection with 22, just before leaving town, 309 goes left at an obvious "Y" fork in the road. Follow 309 approximately 17 miles to the top of Mt. Magazine, and watch for a collection of wooden slat signs directing you to the Overlook Drive and Cameron Bluff Campground on the right (west) side of the road. Turn right on this road. (Directions to the campground follow the next two route descriptions.)

The second way is to take I-30 east to Texarkana, then turn north on US Highway 71. Follow 71 north to the junction with State Highway 10, approximately 12 to 15 miles southeast of Ft. Smith. Turn right (east) on 10, and follow this road to Havana, Arkansas. In Havana, turn left (north) on State Highway 309, and follow it approximately 10.5 miles to the top of Mt. Magazine. Just before the turn-off, there is a sign to Mt. Magazine with a left pointing arrow on the right (east) side of the road. Approximately .1 mile past this sign, there is another sign on the right side of the road for the Greenfield picnic area. The road to the campground and climbing area is on the left (west) side of 309 directly across from the Greenfield picnic area. (Directions to the campground follow the next route description.)

The third way is to take I-30 east to Caddo Valley, Arkansas, then turn north on State Highway 7. Follow 7 north to the junction with State Highway 10, at Ola, approximately 55 miles north of Hot Springs. Turn left (west) on 10 in Ola and follow this road to Havana, Arkansas. In Havana, turn right (north) on State Highway 309, and follow it approximately 10.5 miles to the top of Mt. Magazine. Just before the turn-off, there is a sign to Mt. Magazine with a left pointing arrow on the right (east) side of the road. Approximately .1 mile past this sign, there is another sign on the right side of the road for the Greenfield picnic area. The road to the campground and climbing area is on the left (west) side of 309 directly across from the Greenfield picnic area.

The road to the campground is Road #1606. Follow 1606 approximately 1.5 miles to a "Y" split. A collection of wooden slat signs at the "Y" points to the Signal Hill Trail, Cameron Bluff Campground, and Overlook Drive. Follow the road to the right. The campground entrance is the second turn-off on the right, approximately .4 mile past the "Y".

Getting Around

To get to the climbing area from the campground, leave the campground and turn right on the main road (1606). Follow this road approximately .4 mile to the old lodge parking lot (the only large parking lot in that area). Pull into the parking area, and park at the west end (the right end as you look out over the clifftop). Walk west out of the parking lot on the path, loosely following the power line right-of-way to a cedar thicket at the head of a gully and another power line right-of-way that leads downhill to the left. Turn down this gully and follow the contour of the cliff to the left. The routes begin approximately 50 yards from the gully, along the base of the cliff.

Club Trips

At least once a year, usually over either the Memorial Day or Labor Day weekend (see trip schedule).

Types of Climbing

Primarily toproping and lead climbing. Mt. Magazine features a good variety of trad leads and bolted routes, and even boasts one (unpopular) route put up by Todd Skinner. The majority of the climbs fall into the 5.7 to 5.11+ range, with a few 5.5s and 5.6s on the low end and some hefty 5.12+s on the high end to make things interesting for everyone. The length of most routes is between 30 and 90 feet, so almost everything at Magazine can be toproped.

NOTE: Some topropes can be set up using anchor bolts at the tops of the routes; however, it is not unusual for a route using natural anchors to require up to 30 foot loops of webbing.

Rock

The rock at Mt. Magazine is an extremely compact, fine-grained sandstone very similar to the rock at Robber's Cave. Most of the rock on the 60-or-so established routes is solid and seems to hold protection well.

Climbing Season

As with most areas in this area, the middle of the summer is generally too hot, and the middle of the winter is sometimes too cold, so spring and fall are traditionally the best. However, it's good to remember that Mt. Magazine has an elevation of 2,753 feet, and it is not unusual for it to be 10 degrees cooler on top than in the surrounding lowlands. This can make quite a difference on some of those late spring or early autumn weekends.

Accommodations

Facilities and fees

The closest reliable source for food, gas, and general supplies is 18 miles away (36 miles, round-trip) in Paris.

Expenses

Guidebooks

Mt. Magazine - A Rock Climber's Guide, first edition, by Kerry Allen, copyright 1996, Kerry Allen, published by Short Stone Press. $12.00. This guide replaces the classic "Rock Climber's Guide to Mount Magazine" by Steve Bearden. The new book provides all the route details of the old guide and adds many high-quality hand drawn topos as well as some nice maps of how to find the park, the top of the mountain, and the climbs.