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Location
Approximately 30 miles east of El Paso, Texas.
Useful Phone Numbers
Campsite reservations - (512) 389-8900
Park office - (915) 857-1135
Hueco Tanks Country Store and Cafe (Pete's) (915) 857-1095
Getting There
From Dallas, take I-30 west to Ft. Worth, then take I-20 west until it joins I-10 between Pecos and Van Horn. Continue west on I-10 to Sierra Blanca, and turn north on Ranch Road 1111 (do not get on this road without a reliable car and a full tank of gas). At the end of 1111, turn left (west) on US Highway 62/180 and follow this to Ranch Road 2775. Turn right (north) on 2775, and follow this road into the park.
From the El Paso airport, take Airway Boulevard south out of the airport to the intersection of Airway and Montana. Montana is US Highway 62/180. Turn left (east) on Montana, and follow this out of town to FM 2775. Turn left (north) on 2775, and follow this road into the park.
There is a large, white, flying saucer looking building at the junction of route 62 and 2775. It is the Hueco Mountain Estates real estate office, and it is very hard to miss. It is on the northeast corner of the intersection. Turn there.
Club Trips
The annual "Hueco Tanksgiving" climb, Thanksgiving weekend (see trip schedule). This is a good time to meet and climb with climbers from around the world as Thanksgiving has become an annual "gathering of the tribe" at Hueco Tanks. Thanksgiving dinner at Pete's gives you the opportunity to mingle with way-honed hunks, rock bums, aspiring boulderers, and international poseurs. A definite "must do."
NOTE: Don't forget to stop by Pete's on your way into the park. You must purchase a ticket for Thanksgiving dinner BEFORE that night so Pete knows how much food to prepare. Ticket prices have been going up a bit in the recent past, but expect to pay around $10.00 to $12.00 each. (Yes, it's worth it.)
Types of Climbing
Primarily bouldering with some 2 to 3 pitch lead climbs. Hueco Tanks is one of the world's premiere bouldering areas and features all levels of bouldering problems for everyone from beginners to the extremely advanced. There are also over 300 lead climbs in the park, most in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. The selection of 5.6 to 5.9 climbs is limited enough that the best of them can get crowded on weekends and holidays. The highest concentration of good leads is located on the front side of North Mountain.
Hueco Tanks does not provide much in the way of toproping opportunities. Topropable routes are few and far between in the park, and top anchors are usually scarce.
Rock
The rock at Hueco Tanks is a volcanic material called syenite porphyry. Some of the most noticeable features of the rock are the numerous and often prominent "huecos," or hollows. Most of the rock on popular routes is solid, and there is relatively little "rotten" rock in the park; however, there are a lot of patches of loose rock and scabrous "ironrock" plates to be found on the less traveled routes.
Climbing Season
Hueco Tanks is one of the few winter climbing areas in the U.S., with climber- friendly temperatures from mid-September through mid-May. In the winter, temperatures can drop into the teens and twenties at night, but climb into the 50s and 60s in the daytime. Summer climbing is only recommended for hardcore, completely acclimatized locals, although there are a few caves and shaded areas in the park that offer some refuge from the heat.
Accommodations
The Hueco Tanks campground provides 14 campsites with water and electrical hook- ups and 3 sites with water only. Up to 8 people and 2 cars are allowed per site. Extra cars can be accommodated in the overflow parking areas for an extra fee. No open fires are allowed in the park.
Bathrooms are good, generally clean, include electrical outlets for razors and hair dryers, and have hot water. There is one shower stall on each side.
The park has just recently begun to have problems with water shortages. Last Thanksgiving, the bathrooms were locked except from 6:00 pm to 9:00 pm. Porta-potties were placed near the restrooms for use during the rest of the day. The park was completely without water for a brief time at the beginning of November, and only those who had reservations prior to that time were allowed to camp. Those who did, had to buy water in El Paso and bring it into the park with them. Hopefully this situation will be resolved in the near future.
NOTE: The rangers generally close the park gates around dusk. If you are planning to arrive after the gate closes, call the park office earlier that day to get the gate combination.
Pete's provides tent spaces, a parking lot where you can crash in your truck, and a bunkhouse. There are toilets at Pete's but no showers. Pete's is the closest place to the park for food, coke, and beer. He also has a limited supply of guidebooks, biners, chalkbags, and such, and some fairly cool T-shirts.
Expenses
The 14 campsites in the park with electrical hook-ups cost $11.00 per night. If you have more than 2 cars, there is an additional $2.00 fee per night per car. There are 3 campsites without electical hook-ups. These are almost impossible to get, but if you can, they only cost $8.00 per night.
Day use fees at the Tanks are $2.00 per person per day for park entry, and $2.00 per person per day for a climbing pass.
Pete's is the no-frills alternative to camping in the park. For $3.00 per night, you can pitch a tent at Pete's. You can also crash in Pete's bunkhouse with the field mice for whatever kind of deal you can make with Pete. (If you know your way around the kitchen, rumor has it you can trade a spot in the bunkhouse for work.)
Guidebooks
Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide, second edition, by John Sherman, copyright 1995, Chockstone Press. This is not only the best guide to Hueco Tanks, it is one of the best guides to any area in the U.S. It's well worth the hefty price in entertainment value alone.
Great Rock Hits of Hueco Tanks, first edition, by Paul Piana, copyright 1992, Mountain 'N Air Books. $6.95. A "Best of..." guide. One third the price of the Sherman guide, but it's nowhere near as comprehensive. Still, if you're on a tight budget, this book will help you get around.
Guidebooks can be purchased at most of the gear shops in the area, and sometimes at the park office or at Pete's.
Links
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