ERock

Location

Approximately 16 miles north of Fredricksburg, Texas.

Useful Phone Numbers

Campsite reservations - (512) 389-8900
Park office - (915) 247-3903

Getting There

From Dallas, take I-35 south to Georgetown. At Georgetown turn right (west) on State Highway 29 and follow this to Llano. Turn left (south) on State Highway 16, and continue south approximately 22 miles to the junction of this and Farm and Market Road 965. Turn right and follow 965 a short distance to the Enchanted Rock State Park entrance.

Club Trips

Generally, several per year. Depending on the weather, campsite availability, the trip leader's mood, and the luck of the draw, some rain date makeup classes are also scheduled at E-Rock rather than the Wichitas (see trip schedule).

Types of Climbing

Toproping, lead climbing, bouldering, rappelling, and even some amateur caving. Enchanted Rock is the second closest climbing area to Dallas that offers multi-pitch routes. (The Wichitas being about 1 hour closer by car.) There are nearly 500 established climbs and boulder problems in the park, with most of the classics being the long slab climbs and some of the shorter cracks found on the backside of Main Dome. Most of the climbs in the park fall in the 5.7 to 5.12+ range with (disproportionately?) large selections of 5.7s, 5.8s, and 5.11s. (Climbing Areas)

There are many fine bouldering areas spread throughout the park, but one of the most popular is Lunch Rock, located in the valley between Main and Little Domes. The entire front face of this large boulder offers climbs in the 5.9 to 5.11 range. These climbs can be bouldered, or a toprope can be set using the bolts on top of the rock.

Many of the routes at E-Rock can be toproped, but a good number of them must be lead first in order to set up the rope. On most of these routes, the bolts at the top of the pitch are used as the toprope anchors.

Rock

The rock at Enchanted Rock consists of pink porphyritic granite (a type of pink granite containing feldspar crystals) very similar to that found in the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, near Lawton, Oklahoma. Because of this rough textured crystaline surface, E-Rock provides some of the finest friction climbing in the country on the low and high angle slab climbs of the backside.

Climbing Season

Enchanted Rock, like Hueco Tanks, can be counted on for climber-friendly temperatures from mid-September through mid-May. Even in the middle of winter, it is not unusual for temperatures to climb into the 50s and 60s in the daytime. Summer climbing is only recommended for hardcore, the deranged, or the suicidal. There are very few shaded climbing areas in the park that offer any refuge from the heat, and being trapped between the sun and the reflected glare of that huge granite slab can provide a quick lesson in dehydration and heat stroke.

Accommodations

Enchanted Rock provides walk-in tent camping only. Up to 8 people are allowed in each regular tent site, and up to 4 people are allowed in each backpacking site. It is a good 50 yard walk from the parking area to the closest tent sites, so always try to plan ways to carry your food and gear from the parking area to the campsite.

Bathrooms are good, generally clean, include electrical outlets for razors and hair dryers, and have hot water and showers.

NOTE: Enchanted Rock has become very popular with all types of outdoor groups and other enthusiasts. The park in recent years has begun to experience serious problems with overcrowding. Their solution is to close the park, and not allow anyone to enter after a maximum number of visitors has been reached. Once closed, the park does not allow any additional visitors until 4:00 or 5:00 pm. If you are planning a trip to E-Rock over spring break, a holiday, or some other busy weekend, call the park office ahead of time and find out what time you need to arrive to ensure your entrance into the park.

Alternatives to camping at E-Rock are the Lady Bird Johnson city park, 3 miles south of Fredricksburg, just off Texas Highway 16, or the Llano city park on the west edge of Llano, just off Texas Highway 29.

Expenses

E-Rock Fees

Guidebooks

Enchanted Rock- A Climber's Guide by Sean O'Grady 2003
Sharp End Publishing

The Dome Driver's Manual - A Climber's Guide to Enchanted Rock, third edition, by James Crump, Robert Price, and Scott Harris, copyright 1996, Big Fun Publications. This is a great guidebook, co-authored by one of the contributors to the first edition of the classic Hueco Tanks bouldering guide. This book is interesting, informative, and entertaining. It provides information on the historical, biological, geological, political, and spiritual aspects of Enchanted Rock in addition to the expected route descriptions and an unexpected short story. This guidebook is out of print.